Pointing Trowel — CO2 Welded Carbon Steel, 4"–7"

• Art. Nr: 124721, 125721, 126721, 127721 (4 sizes)
• Sizes: 4"–7" (102–178 mm)
• Material: Carbon steel, polished blade
• Construction: CO2 welded blade and shank
• Handle: Soft grip, BF21

Product Name & Model

Construction line: CO2 Welding Carbon Steel
Art. Nr and sizes: 124721 (4"), 125721 (5"), 126721 (6"), 127721 (7")

The four art numbers 124721–127721 are one product family in four blade lengths, 4" through 7", sold on a soft grip handle. They are the CO2-welded companion to the forged Pointing Trowel line, size for size.

Where this sits in the Leading Tools range

The four sizes in this line are the CO2 counterparts of the forged 024721–027721, size for size. Buyers who want the same blade shape in one-piece forged construction can choose the forged line; buyers who want a metric-specified blade, or a stainless blade, can choose the metric lines. The metric trowels are a different product from this one.

What a pointing trowel is

A pointing trowel is a smaller version of the brick trowel, used for picking up small amounts of mortar, patching and small rebuilds, repairs, detail rendering/plastering, and carrying mortar to the edge of the joint. The brick trowel lays and spreads mortar beds; the pointing trowel handles small quantities and detail work.

Pressing mortar into the joint and compacting it is done with a Tuck Pointing Trowel or a Brick Jointer. That division of labor is the reason the blade is narrow and comes in 4"–7" lengths rather than the 9"–12" of a laying trowel.

A closely related but distinct tool is the Tuck Pointing Trowel, whose blade is only 3/16"–1" (4–25 mm) wide and is used specifically for setting mortar into a joint, removing mortar, and filling and shaping it. The Leading Tools 124721–127721 line is a pointing trowel, not a Tuck Pointing Trowel; for very narrow joints that need compacting, order a Tuck Pointing Trowel.

Core Features

• Blade shape: narrow and elongated, tapering to a point at the toe; the blade is significantly longer than it is wide.
• Blade lengths: four sizes, 4" (102 mm), 5" (127 mm), 6" (152 mm), 7" (178 mm).
• Construction: CO2 Welding Carbon Steel: the blade and the shank are joined by CO2 welding.
• Blade material and finish: polished carbon steel.
• Handle: soft grip handle BF21 on all four sizes. Other handles can be fitted on request; contact Leading Tools sales.
• Weld junction: the blade and shank are joined by CO2 welding; it is the feature that separates this line from the forged 024721–027721 line, and the point to check during maintenance.

Product Advantages

It handles small amounts of mortar where a laying trowel cannot. The narrow blade picks up a small amount of mortar and carries it to the edge of the joint instead of bridging across onto the brick face. That is the whole functional argument for owning a pointing trowel alongside a brick trowel: the brick trowel is the tool that carries and spreads mortar beds, the pointing trowel is the tool for patching, repairs, detail work and small quantities of mortar.

The pointed toe controls placement. The blade narrows to a point at the nose, so mortar can be aimed at a precise point, such as a corner or the edge of a joint, rather than spread across an area. A narrow pointed blade places mortar accurately and works out tight areas.

It suits small repair and rebuild work, which is where most pointing trowels are actually used. The typical jobs are patching and small rebuilds, repairs, detail rendering/plastering, and carrying mortar to the edge of the joint on exposed-brick renovation work. All of these are low-volume, high-precision tasks where the tool's control matters more than the mortar it can carry.

It carries the mortar; other tools pack it. In stone paving worked by the dry pointing method, the pointing trowel carries small amounts of mortar to the edge of the joint; pressing it home, filling to roughly 1/4" proud of the joint face and striking off after about 30 minutes, is done with a Tuck Pointing Trowel or a Brick Jointer.

Soft grip handle on every size. All four art numbers carry the BF21 soft grip, so the range does not force a buyer to accept a bare wood handle on the small sizes.

How to Use

When to Use

Basic technique: repointing a wall

Application notes

a) Repointing weathered joints. Existing joints are raked out to sound mortar first, then refilled. The narrow blade lets the mason work one joint at a time without disturbing the surrounding masonry, carrying small amounts of mortar to the raked joint. Filling the joint to full depth, and compacting it so that it is not just face-pointed over a hollow, is done with a Tuck Pointing Trowel or a Brick Jointer, as described in the technique table above.

b) Finishing joints on new brickwork. On newly laid work the joints are struck while the mortar is still green. Because the mortar is fresh, the technique is less about compaction and more about placing a consistent quantity along the joint and leaving a uniform surface for the jointer. A 6" blade suits this because it carries enough mortar to keep a rhythm without becoming unwieldy at the work.

c) Dry pointing stone paving. In this method the joint is filled with a stiff mix rather than a pourable grout.

Mortar is picked up on a brick trowel; the pointing trowel carries small amounts to the edge of the joint, and the mortar is pressed home with a Tuck Pointing Trowel or a Brick Jointer, deliberately overfilled to about 1/4" proud of the surface, and struck off flush after about 30 minutes. For the small-quantity feeding the pointing trowel does here, the 4" and 5" blades are usually more controllable than the 7".

d) Patch and localized repair. When a small area of brickwork is made good: an isolated damaged brick replaced, a spall filled, the pointing trowel deposits a precise quantity of mortar into an irregular gap without the operator having to work over the surrounding sound masonry. Because the gaps left by a removed brick are rarely square, the pointed toe is doing most of the work of getting mortar behind and around the repair piece.

e) Corner and tight-space work. Anywhere lateral clearance is restricted: between closely spaced units, in narrow piers, around fixtures, at wall returns, the narrow blade and pointed toe give access that a wider or flat-ended blade does not. This is the use case the narrow blade is made for: placing mortar at a precise point and working out tight areas.

Mortar consistency and common mistakes

The single most useful field test is the marzipan test in the technique table above: cut the mortar and see whether it holds its shape. Mortar that is too wet slumps out of the joint and smears; mortar that is too dry crumbles and will not compact.

Two mistakes come up repeatedly. The first is focusing on the choice of trowel when the mortar mix is the variable that actually determines the result. The second is scraping surplus mortar off the brick face with the trowel instead of brushing it off after it has stiffened; scraping smears a thin cement film across the face which is very difficult to remove once it has cured.

FAQ

Q1. Is this the same tool as the forged Pointing Trowel?
A. It has the same blade geometry and the same four sizes, but a different construction. The forged line (024721–027721) is made from one piece of high carbon steel, while this line (124721–127721) has the blade welded to the shank. For sustained heavy daily use choose the forged line; for occasional and general work this line does the same job.

Q2. Which size should a first-time buyer order?
A. 126721, the 6". It is a general-purpose pointing trowel size, with 4"–5" for fine detail work.

Q3. Can I use it to lay brick, and do I need a Tuck Pointing Trowel as well?
A. No, it cannot replace a brick trowel: a pointing trowel is a smaller version meant for picking up small amounts of mortar, patching, repairs and carrying mortar to the edge of the joint, so for laying use a Leading Tools brick trowel in a 9"–12" size. To press mortar into the joint and compact it you need a Tuck Pointing Trowel (3/16"–1" blade) or a Brick Jointer; this pointing trowel supplies the mortar.

Q4. How do I keep it from rusting and sticking to mortar?
A. Carbon steel has to be kept continuously dry: dry the blade completely before oiling it, store it somewhere dry rather than in a damp tool bag, and do not leave it soaking in water.

If mortar sticks, check that the mix holds its shape like marzipan, and clean and oil a rough or rusty blade. The stainless pointing trowels (292821, 293821) have a lower maintenance burden, but chlorinated water, coastal air or prolonged soaking can still cause rust spots, so rinse with clean water and dry after use.

Q5. There is a hairline crack at the weld. Can it be re-welded?
A. No, take the tool out of service and replace it. If your crew uses pointing trowels heavily every day, consider the forged 024721–027721 line.

Specifications Overview

CO2 welded construction: what the construction line means

"CO2 Welding Carbon Steel" describes a tool whose blade and shank are joined by CO2 welding. This is the opposite of the forged line, where the same blade shape is described as "Forged in One-piece High Carbon Steel" and the blade, shank and tang are one piece.

How the two constructions differ

Forged trowels are made from a single piece of high carbon steel. In the welded construction, the blade and shank are joined by CO2 welding. The forged line suits daily professional use and heavier working loads; the CO2 welded line suits occasional and general work such as detail, finishing and patching. Keep the weld area clean and dry (see Care & Maintenance below).

CO2 welded vs. forged: structural comparison

Blade geometry

What the pointed toe buys the user, in the order it matters on site: mortar can be placed at a precise point rather than spread across an area; small amounts of mortar can be handled without pushing the surrounding material out of shape; the taper lets the operator control the angle of approach; and it reaches into internal corners and irregular gaps that a flat-ended margin trowel cannot reach cleanly.

Specifications table

Carbon steel vs. stainless steel: which line to specify

The two steels differ mainly in corrosion resistance and maintenance.

Because Leading Tools offers both, the choice depends mainly on how the tool will be stored and maintained.

Selection Guide

Available sizes

Size selection logic

By type of work. Blades of 4"–5" are in the fine-detail band and 6" is a general-purpose size. 124721 and 125721 are detail tools, 126721 is a general-purpose size, and 127721 gives the longest reach.

By joint width. Standard modern brickwork joints run about 3/8"–1/2" (10–13 mm), and any blade in this range can reach them. Below roughly 3/8": heritage work, tight repair joints, narrow-format brick: the shorter, narrower blades give better control; for very narrow joints that need compacting, use a Tuck Pointing Trowel (3/16"–1" blade) rather than a pointing trowel.

By operator. An apprentice is best started on the 4", because it forces the shorter, more controlled stroke that good pointing requires. A working professional will normally run a 5" or 6", and a restoration or deep-joint specialist will want the 7". This lines up with the size bands above: 4"–5" is the fine-detail size and 6" the general-purpose size.

CO2 welded or forged: the purchasing decision

In one line: if the trowel is in a professional's hand every day and has heavier working loads, specify the forged line; if it comes out for patching, repair and detail work, the welded line does the same job.

Pointing trowel or something else

Full Size Reference

All four art numbers, listed individually.

Care & Maintenance

After every use

Carbon steel and fresh mortar are a bad combination: mortar left on the blade holds moisture against the steel and the blade is not corrosion-resistant, so the tool has to be cleaned the same day it is used.

• Clean the mortar off with a brush while it is still wet; do not let it cure on the blade.
• Do not soak the tool in water for extended periods.
• Dry the blade completely before putting it away; carbon steel needs to be kept continuously dry.
• Wipe the blade with a thin film of tool oil to protect the surface, and store it in a dry place.

- Remove dried mortar with a plastic scraper or a nylon brush; do not use a wire brush or wire wheel, which scratch the blade surface.

The weld junction

Because this line is a welded fabrication, check the weld area every time the tool is cleaned:

- Brush mortar out of the recess around the weld bead rather than leaving it packed there; it holds moisture against the joint.
- Look at the weld bead for rust, pitting or any hairline separation.
- Oil the weld junction and the shank as well as the blade face.
- If a crack appears at the weld, take the tool out of service. Do not attempt to re-weld it; replace the tool.

Rust prevention by storage interval

Blade and toe

The pointed toe is the functional part of the blade; once it is bent, chipped or rounded off, the precision that justifies the tool is gone.

- Dress minor burrs on the edge lightly with a fine mill file, following the original factory bevel. Do not re-profile the toe.
- A bent toe can sometimes be straightened once; a cracked one cannot, and the tool should be replaced.

Handle

All four art numbers carry the BF21 soft grip, so wood-handle maintenance does not apply to this line.