Tile Setter's Trowel — CO2 Welded Carbon Steel

• Art. Nr: 165721, 166721, 167721
• Sizes: 5", 6", 7" (127 / 152 / 178 mm)
• Material: Carbon steel
• Construction: CO2 welded blade and shank
• Handle: Two-tone soft grip

Product Name & Model

The Tile Setter's Trowel is a small pointed masonry trowel used mainly for back-buttering: spreading a coat of thin-set or mortar directly onto the back face of a tile or stone unit before it is pressed into the bed. It sits in the Brick Trowel family of the Leading Tools range because it shares the pointed-toe masonry blade form, but its working task is tile setting, not bricklaying: the blade is short (5"–7") and narrow, sized to a tile back rather than to a brick bed.

Core Features

• Tile setter's blade pattern: triangular with a pointed toe and rounded shoulders. The blade tapers to a sharp point at the toe and widens through a curved shoulder toward the heel where the shank attaches. The pointed toe is what lets the user start and stop a spreading stroke at a defined point and reach into the corners of a tile back; the rounded shoulder gives spreading width without a square corner that would gouge the adhesive coat.
• CO2 welding carbon steel construction: this is the product line designation. The blade and the shank are separate parts joined by CO2 welding rather than being forged in one piece. The welded shank pad is visible over the blade heel.
• Carbon steel blade: the carbon steel blade costs less, and it must be wiped dry and given a thin coat of tool oil after use, or it will rust. Care & Maintenance below covers it.
• Two-tone soft-grip handle. The grip is a dual-material soft grip with a closed end. Soft-grip handles are standard on this pattern.
• Three sizes: 5", 6", 7". Art. Nr 165721, 166721, 167721 respectively. These are the nominal blade sizes.
• A back-buttering tool, not a bed-combing tool. This trowel is the partner of the notched trowel, not a substitute for it. The notched trowel combs ridges into the adhesive on the substrate; this trowel loads and flattens adhesive on the tile back. They are complementary steps of one system.

Product Advantages

Correct blade size for the tile back, not for a brick bed. A brick trowel carries enough mortar for a course of brick; used on a tile it over-applies and pushes adhesive out at the tile edges, which then has to be cleaned out of the joints before grouting. At 5"–7" the blade of this trowel matches the area of a tile back so a single loaded stroke does not deposit more material than the joint can absorb.

Pointed toe gives a defined start and stop. Back-buttering is judged on coverage, and the failure mode is a thin or empty patch near a corner. A pointed toe lets the operator drive material into the corner of the tile back and lift out cleanly, instead of stopping short as a square-nosed blade does. This is why the triangular pointed trowel suits fine adhesive application and corner work.

Carbon steel blade. The carbon steel blade can keep a thin, springy working edge. For back-buttering, where the blade is repeatedly pressed flat against the tile back, that spring helps the operator feel the thickness of the adhesive coat through the tool.

CO2 welded construction. The blade and shank are joined by CO2 welding rather than forged in one piece. Back-buttering is a spreading and pressing motion rather than a prying or striking one, so a welded shank suits the load.

A standard tile-setting pattern. This is not a house-only shape. A distributor carrying 165721/166721/167721 is offering a familiar form.

Three sizes in one product line. One construction and one handle. The three sizes can be matched to the tile back, from mosaic and subway tile to large-format tile; choose by the area of the tile back.

How to Use

When to Use

Basic Technique: back-buttering, step by step

The two coats, combed bed plus back-buttered tile, merge under pressure and fill the voids that a single combed bed alone leaves between the ridges. This is the reason back-buttering exists.

Large-format tile

By common usage, large-format tile means a long edge of 15" or more. TCNA recommends back-buttering large-format tile. ANSI A108.5 requires adhesive contact of at least 80% in dry interior areas and at least 95% in wet areas and exterior work, and back-buttering is a common way to reach it. Confirm the requirement against the adhesive manufacturer's data sheet and local codes.

Large tiles are also the case where getting it wrong is hardest to detect and most expensive to fix: a large tile has less ability to bridge substrate irregularity, and a void behind it announces itself later as a hollow sound and eventually a crack. The 7" (167721) is the size to reach for here: a longer blade covers a large tile back in fewer passes, which is both faster and more consistent.

The notched trowel selection also changes with the tile; follow the adhesive manufacturer's recommendation.

Natural stone

Marble, granite, limestone and travertine tiles often have sawn, raked or naturally uneven back faces. Back-buttering with this trowel fills those irregularities so the stone sits on a continuous bed of adhesive instead of on high spots, which is what reduces the risk of localized stress cracking. Because stone backs are not flat, the second pass (step 5 of Basic Technique above) matters more here than on a smooth porcelain back.

The double-buttered press-set method

Apply adhesive to both the substrate and the tile back, then set the tile before either coat skins over. Because both surfaces are buttered, the bond is more reliable.

Thin / gauged porcelain panels

Gauged porcelain panels at 3–6 mm thickness are the least tolerant substrate for uneven adhesive: they are too thin to bridge anything. Standard practice combs the adhesive in one direction on the substrate and back-butters in the same direction, so the two ridge sets align and collapse into a solid bed. Follow the adhesive manufacturer’s data sheet for notch size and application. The 7" blade (167721) is the practical choice for panel work: a longer blade covers more panel area in one stroke, which reduces the number of stroke joins where a thin spot can occur.

Where the trowel sits in the tile setter's tool kit

FAQ

Q1. Is this a brick trowel or a tile trowel, and can I use it instead of a notched trowel?
Both descriptions are used.

Leading Tools groups it in the Brick Trowel family because it shares the pointed masonry blade form, but the product name is Tile Setter's Trowel and its working task is back-buttering tile (spreading a flat coat of adhesive on the tile back). It does not replace a notched trowel: the notched trowel combs ridges into the adhesive on the substrate, while this trowel spreads a flat coat on the tile back, so they are two steps of one system.

Q2. Do I have to back-butter, or is combing the bed enough?
For small tile in dry interior areas, a properly combed bed may be sufficient. For large-format tile (by common usage, a long edge of 15" and over), TCNA recommends back-buttering, and the ANSI A108.5 contact requirement is higher in wet and exterior areas (95%) than in dry interior areas (80%).

Q3. Which size should I buy first?
Choose by tile size: 5" (165721) for mosaic, subway and cut-piece work; 6" (166721) for general mid-size work; 7" (167721) for large-format tile and stone, since it covers a large tile back in fewer passes. If too much adhesive squeezes out at the tile edges, apply a thinner skim or move down to the 6" or 5".

Q4. How do I clean it and keep it from rusting?
Clean and oil the blade at the end of every working day; a carbon steel blade rusts if it is stored wet or without oil. If mortar has hardened on the blade, soak it in water, scrape it with a plastic or wooden scraper rather than a steel wire brush, then dry it completely and re-oil it. This model is carbon steel only; for a stainless steel version, contact Leading Tools sales.

Q5. What should I avoid doing with it?
Do not use it for prying or chiseling. If the handle is loose or wobbling, stop using the tool and refit it properly before further use; replace the tool if the shank or handle socket is damaged.

Specifications Overview

Blade Design

Only the blade length is quoted as the nominal size. The blade is longer than it is wide, so a single stroke sweeps a band down the tile back rather than dabbing at it; this is the geometric reason the pattern is used for back-buttering rather than a square finishing blade.

Handle Design

Soft-grip handles are standard on this pattern and are valued for hold and comfort.

Construction: CO2 Welding

The product line designation for this trowel is "CO2 Welding Carbon Steel." CO2 welding joins the shank to the blade at the heel, so the finished tool is an assembly of two parts rather than one piece of steel.

What that means in practice:

• The blade and shank are joined by a weld at the junction. This is the ordinary characteristic of a welded-construction trowel.
• The tool should not be used as a pry bar, chisel or scraper. This applies to any trowel. See Care & Maintenance below.
• The load case of back-buttering is favorable to this construction. Back-buttering is a spreading and pressing action against a flat tile back; it does not apply the levering loads that bricklaying or block work would.

Variant Table

All three art numbers share one blade pattern, one material and one construction; only the size changes. The Tile Setter's Trowel is listed here in carbon steel only; for other blade materials, contact Leading Tools sales.

Selection Guide

Which size

Choose the size by the area of the tile back; the 5" is the detail and cut-piece size.

This trowel vs. the notched trowel: they are not alternatives

The two tools do different jobs.

The two are complementary steps of one system, not substitutes. Using this trowel to comb a bed would not produce ridges; using a notched trowel to back-butter produces ridged, uneven back coverage.

Choose the notch of the notched trowel according to the tile size and the adhesive manufacturer's recommendation (see the Notched Trowel series).

This trowel vs. a brick trowel

Both are pointed masonry blades, which is why this product sits in the Brick Trowel chapter, but they are sized and used for different work.

Brick trowel patterns are distinguished by the heel shape: the London pattern has a rounded heel that helps push mortar forward and press it into narrow joints, while the Philadelphia pattern has a square heel that carries more mortar and is favored for block work. A tile setter's blade is much shorter than either: a bricklaying trowel runs 9"–12" while this one runs 5"–7", and is not intended to carry a brick's worth of mortar.

Carbon steel vs. stainless steel

This product is carbon steel. The carbon steel blade costs less, and it must be wiped dry and given a thin coat of tool oil after use, or it will rust (see Care & Maintenance below).

Stainless steel has high corrosion resistance and a low maintenance burden; chlorinated water, coastal air or prolonged soaking can still cause rust spots, so rinse with clean water and dry after use. This model is listed in carbon steel only; for a stainless steel version, contact Leading Tools sales.

Full Size Reference

Complete art-number reference for the Tile Setter's Trowel, CO2 Welding Carbon Steel. All three art numbers in the line are listed.

Metric values are converted at 1" = 25.4 mm and rounded; the nominal sizes for this product are given in imperial only.

Care & Maintenance

Cleaning after every use

• Remove all adhesive or mortar before it hardens. Cement-based residue left to set on a carbon steel blade both pits the surface and holds moisture against it.
• Use a nylon brush, a wooden scraper or a plastic scraper on the blade face.
• For residue that has already hardened, soak the blade in water to soften the deposit before scraping.
• Rinse with clean water and dry immediately and completely.
• Do not use a steel wire brush or wire wheel on the blade face for routine cleaning: it scratches the surface, and a scratched face both drags in the adhesive and rusts more readily.

Rust prevention: the one thing that matters on a carbon steel blade

Care for a carbon steel trowel is simple: wipe the tool clean at the end of the day and oil it. A water-displacing spray, machine oil or mineral oil are all adequate; wrapping the tool in cloth or newspaper for storage is the usual practice. A carbon steel blade rusts if it is put away wet or left without oil.

• Dry the blade completely after washing, including the crevice where the shank meets the blade: that junction traps water.
• Apply a thin oil film over the whole blade after drying.
• Store dry. Do not leave the tool in a damp bag, against wet mortar, or wrapped in a wet rag.
• Inspect for orange surface bloom and deal with it early; light surface rust comes off with fine abrasive and the blade is then re-oiled.
• An alternative approach is to degrease the blade and soak it in vinegar to build a deliberate black oxide patina as a rust barrier. This is a minority practice, not the standard recommendation, and it changes the appearance of the blade permanently.

Handle care

• Check the soft grip for splits, tears or peeling; a grip that turns in the hand costs control.
• Check that the handle is firmly seated on the shank. A loose handle on a pointed trowel is a safety issue, not just a comfort one.
• Clean the grip with mild soap and water. Avoid solvent-based cleaners, which can damage the soft grip.
• If the handle works loose, stop using the tool until it is refitted.

Blade and toe care

• The pointed toe is the functionally critical feature of this pattern. Inspect it after heavy use; a toe that is chipped, bent or badly rounded no longer starts a stroke cleanly.
• Minor rounding of the point from normal wear does not materially affect back-buttering.
• Do not try to straighten a badly bent blade or a bent toe. Replace the tool.
• Never use this trowel as a pry bar, chisel or hammer.

Long-term storage

• Clean, dry, then apply a heavier oil film than for daily storage.
• Wrap the blade in oiled cloth, newspaper or VCI rust-inhibiting paper.
• Store somewhere dry and temperature-stable; avoid unheated sheds where condensation cycles.